After breakfast at our hotel we met our guide Isai who would be with us for the next four days as we hiked, camped and learnt about the Incan Empire and Andean people. As well as Isai, we hiked with Janet and Ramsey who were in our big tour group. They are an incredibly fit couple from San Francisco, California. They’re both retired high school teachers who have travelled extensively around the world. We really enjoyed their company and hearing their stories. The other couple we walked with were Matt and Eva from New Zealand. They currently live in Australia and it was really nice having familiar conversations with them as they are the first New Zealanders we have met so far. We said “hasta luego” to rest of our Intrepid group who would be doing the two day Quarry Trail hike instead of the classic Inca Trail.

All geared up, the seven of us set off. The first day was relatively easy, covering twelve kilometres at gradual terrain. Carrying only our small day packs with rain jackets, water, snacks and a camera made our walking much easier compared to our porters.

Between the seven of us we had eleven porters, including a chef and sous chef who between them carried 25 kilograms each including our tents, the dining tent, their own tents, all of our food, cooking equipment, crockery, a portable toilet, gas bottle, tables and chairs, first aid supplies, our extra clothes, toiletries and sleeping bags. The strength, fitness and endurance of these men was incredible as they walked the same track that we did, often at a very high altitude. They would leave after us each morning and would pass us on the track about an hour in to be at camp before us.

Each day when we arrived at camp all of our tents were set up and clean, the dining tent was set up ready for afternoon tea and we were always given warm water to wash with. I felt guilty when they would clap for us when we arrived.

Always smiling they then had a brief and well deserved rest while the chef and sous chef prepared us a three course meal for dinner. The food we ate on the trail was some of the best we have eaten in South America so far. Mostly Peruvian food such from scratch soups as starters, grilled trout and chicken with lots of fresh vegetables, quinoa and delicious sauces. On top of that he would also make us fries, little pizzas, cheese wontons and fresh popcorn (my fave) to keep us well energised physically and mentally.

Dessert was always fresh and delicious with the most magical moment being when our chef, in a tent, after walking all day, in the middle of the Peruvian jungle, baked us a full sized vanilla mud cake, intricately decorated and piped. I told the him he should write a cookbook about how to cook whilst camping. I would definitely buy it and would love to know his secrets.

Day two was the most challenging day of hiking. Although we only walked nine kilometres, it was five hours of uphill stone steps, climbing to an altitude of 4200 metres. Taking it slowly meant we didn’t lose our breath which is quite hard to get back with the air being so cold and thin. After reaching the peak at Dead Woman’s Pass we began the descent to camp to be greeted again by our smiling porters ready to have hot tea before another incredible meal.

Day three was the longest day, covering fourteen kilometres which was mostly downhill. This day had full, low cloud cover meaning we couldn’t see anything off the path. This added a mystical element to the dense jungle-like landscapes. We stopped at multiple Inca sites along the way, which we were told by our guide once served the purpose of hostels. Andean people would make the pilgrimage from Cusco to Machu Picchu, stopping at the small houses along the way where they were provided shelter, rest and food from the crops grown. Taking the traditional Inca Trail really made us feel connected to those ancient people, walking the same path and stopping at the same rest stops.

After three days of waking up at 5am we were starting to feel quite tired. This made the 3am wake up on day four even harder. At 4am we were on the track, waiting at the final checkpoint for an hour and a half to begin the final portion of the track to Machu Picchu. Once we got moving the tiredness disappeared as the excitement took over. In an hour and a half we reached the Sun Gate where we saw Machu Picchu in the early morning light for the first time. From up high we were blown away by the size and intricacy of the city of Machu Picchu. An hour later we were on the grounds after following the same path as the ancient Andean people who made the pilgrimage so many years ago. This feeling made the four days of hiking and camping absolutely worth it.

We were given an informative two hour tour of the grounds by our guide before heading into Machu Picchu City to enjoy a well deserved burger. We then caught the train and then mini van back to Cusco where a hot shower and comfortable, warm bed felt hugely appreciated.

So far on our trip we have hiked for multiple days through a variety of environments in Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Argentina. The history and hospitality combined with the stunning views of the Inca Trail is like no hike we’ve ever done and may not ever do again. And it wasn’t even that hard 😉😴.